We drove to Monte Carlo yesterday by way of Nice and the village of La Turbie which sits high above Monaco (Monte Carlo is the famous quarter of this independent and tiny country) in the French, Maritime Alps.

Spectacular view of La Turbie, with Le Trophee des Alpes towering above.

“The Grande Corniche”, as this spectacular drive is known, rivals any other such route in the world, while La Turbie is the home of the impressive and grand Le Trophee des Alpes. It is the 2,000 year old monument to Augustus Caesar, built by the Roman Senate in 6 B.C., to commemorate his victories and to stand as a towering dividing line between Gaul and Italy as well as to mark the great road leading from Rome on through France to Great Britain. Augustus Caesar began his political career as Octavian, a nephew of Juluis Caesar. His torturous route to Emperor of Rome is wonderfully depicted in the excellent, 26-part dramatic HBO television series – a must-see!

Approaching the physical testimony to the accomplishments of Augustus Casesar.

As we walked about this ancient site, an overpowering sense of history and the grandeur of the Roman Empire overcame us both. To use a much overworked word – it was/is awesome!

But, on to Monte Carlo, the epitome of chic and glamour from Alfred Hitchcock to James Bond to Grace Kelly and to the super rich sheiks from the oil-rich kingdoms of the middle east.

The view of Monaco and its beautiful harbor from La Turbie.

Of course, at the center of everything is the Belle Epoch Casino where the tax-free citizens of Monaco are forbidden to enter. However, to-day, at the very end of the “season,” the entire Casino Square seems overrun by tourists (including ourselves of course) and thereby somewhat diminished in its exclusivity and romantic appeal – it’s sense of the “unattainable” being no more. But, standing to the immediate west of the casino is the magnificent Hotel de Paris, another structure a la the Belle Epoch – and the hotel is quietly composed and serene in its lavish lobby complete with uber courteous staff.

The terrace around Le Grill – the restaurant atop the Hotel de Paris.

We decided to have lunch at Le Grill, a very “tony” restaurant that sits atop the hotel and offers an astonishing view of the harbor of Monaco, the royal palace (of Princess Grace fame) and the sparkling Mediterranean with its yachts sailing in and out of harbor.

Le Grill came to my attention when reading a crime novel by Quentin Jardine that is set mostly in Monte Carlo – a clear demonstration of the sometime level of my literary sophistication. Upon reading the description of Le Grill, I suggested that we lunch there.

Spectacular view of Monaco’s harbor from Le Grill.

And what a lunch it was; delicious to the point of disbelief and served by a coterie of skilled and attentive waiters.

This lunch was an adventure in the art of cuisine as well as drowning in the ambience of luxury of the most agreeable sort.

I’ll let the photographs speak.

And for the movie – “To Catch A Thief” a remastered version directed by Alfred Hitchcock, starring Grace Kelly and Cary Grant and set on the Riviera and in the Hotel de Paris.

Movie Review:

The Good Thief

Directed by Neil Jordan — Fox Searchlight 2003
Starring: Nick Nolte

“The Good Thief” is an unusual “heist” movie set on the contemporary Riviera – all of its action takes place in Nice or Monte Carlo.

Southern coast of Monte Carlo, rapidly approaching Italy.

Nolte plays Bob, a master thief who faces life in a French prison if apprehended one more time. Bob is also a heroin addict struggling to “recover.”

In many ways, this movie is completely conventional but its unique elements stand out so conspicuously that, overall, it doesn’t appear conventional at all.

Because it is a remake of a French classic “Bob, le Flambeure” and is set where it is, it carries an overall feeling of Gallic insouciance that belies the tension of the high tech robbery that is in progress.

Neil Jordan, the director of such excellent and award-winning films as “The Crying Game” and “The Butcher Boy”, creates the story against the seamy side of the Riviera – capturing the feel and danger of the backstreets and clubs of Nice which is, like Marseilles, a seaport on the Mediterranean. The atmosphere of “The Good Thief” is the polar opposite of that presented in “To Catch a Thief”.

Nick Nolte has never been better as the weary thief who, according to “Time Out,” “carries the whole picture with his lined features, high tar vocal delivery and air of gentlemanly savoir faire in low-rent circumstances.”

Bob presents to us an appealing character – a good thief who, after all, is only stealing from the Riviera Casino and seems to be sincere in his attempt to “kick” his heroin habit.

Why are these men appealing? Are they just ‘bad boys” or does our attraction to them signify much more.

Well, I don’t know; but movies use this characteristic of ours constantly.

And, in that regard,let’s look at another somewhat overlooked set-in-Europe movie whose protagonist is a very likeable psychopath

Movie Review:

Ripley’s Game

Directed by Liliani Cavani — 2002
Starring: John Malkovich

An American, Italian, Great Britain co-production based upon the Patricia Highsmith character she created in six or so novels.

Tom Ripley is an amoral and narcissistic aesthete living in palatial circumstances in Tuscany. His considerable income comes from deals that range from just shady to plain murderous!

Tuscany Villa.

But Tom is charming, sophisticated and a ruthless improviser whenever his situation is threatened. And remember, that this Tom Ripley is an imposter who murdered the original Tom so as to inherit his wealth and lifestyle. (See “The Talented Mr. Ripley” – issue # - )

John Malkovich unerringly playing the "Older, Wiser, More Talented" Mr. Ripley.

John Malkovich is excellent in the title role; so much so that I crave more of Ms. Highsmith’s novels turned into such cinematic delicacies.

“Ripley’s Game’s” plot revolves around yet another fraudulent operation which requires a fall guy. Tom Ripley may have aesthetic principles to which he adheres but he certainly has no moral scruples – particularly when one of his “deals” starts to falter and he needs to take remedial action.

And, the always fascinating Tom Ripley stories are played out against the fabulous background of wealthy Europe – its architecture, art, cuisine and clothing.

Tom is just another deadly scoundrel to…love?